Monday, June 07, 2010

“My religion is very simple. My religion is kindness.”

Dalai Lama: "My religion is very simple. My religion is kindness."

I'm writing from Dharamsala, India, home of the Dalai Lama, the spiritual leader of the Tibetan people. People who come regularly say  the changes in the town over the last few years are shocking. The first and only time I was here was on my very first trip to India in 1992, and I'm happy to say that it was so long ago that I've forgotten too much to be shocked. On my first trip, it was a backpacker-friendly community that was really about the Tibetans. It's transforming now into an Indian tourist town, with massive traffic jams on the single-lane streets and the resultant car horns, mega-blocky concrete hotels, and major water problems from over-development. But it's still backpacker-friendly, with delicious food, wireless internet cafes, and a marijuana-friendly culture that some dread-locked ravers find irresistible. And when the Dalai Lama came back into town last week after an overseas trip, the street was lined with beautifully reverent Tibetans, happy to see even a fleeting glimpse of His Holiness, as he's known.

Since I uploaded the photos below, I've taken quite a few more, including on an amazing hike yesterday. I'll send more photos soon, and fill you in on my travel plans, including a trip to Singapore, then summer in Europe!

Much love,
Dave

The photos below can also be found here:

Butter lamps are a common Tibetan religious observance. These are inside what's considered the Dalai Lama's temple. Supposedly they represent the illumination of wisdom.
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Love this kid!
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This monk Nawang is my new best friend. Very sweet guy, and he's invited me to visit him in Ladakh or Manali, where he spends part of each year. He just had cataract surgery on both eyes. One eye doesn't work very well, but with the other eye, he says, "I understand everything" - meaning he can see everything.
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Little girl sharing a confidence with her Mom. 
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This beautiful little guy is half German (father) and half Tibetan (mother.) If only he got enough to eat!
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These prayer wheels are filled with written prayers, and spinning them generates good karma, also referred to as accumulating merit. More merit => better rebirth. 
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It's fairly uncommon to see a woman saddhu like this one. I think she has a striking face. She was sitting in front of the Dalai Lama's temple, either "begging" or "requesting alms," depending on your outlook.
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This kid and his two friends all had the same expression as they looked into the camera, like I might swat him. I thought about it, but decided not to!
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We visited an impressive non-profit, the Norbulingka Institute, which serves to preserve Tibetan culture and traditional arts. They train something like 100 artists at a time in three-year programs for thangka painting (shown here), sewn thangkas, and sculpture. They have some amazing works on display, and the grounds are really stunning.
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This small fabric thangka is 100% thread. There's no ink or drawing of any kind.
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This (bronze?) plate is hand-hammered, not cast. It's amazing how much time and skill it would require.
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This huge thangka is hanging in the monastery, which is part of the institute. It's also completely sewn.
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This is a small section of the thangka above - in the center of the lowest section.
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And this is even a smaller portion, showing the robes of the lute player above. It shows how much detail goes into a thangka like this. Incredible.
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There was some sort of protest/procession happening down one of the streets in town. If it's not obvious, these are mostly nuns.
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These young men were also in the procession.
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Beautiful Mother and baby. (And their family makes some wicked-good pizza!)
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I wanted to take her photo as soon as I saw her.
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I tend to particularly like kids who let me pick them up! I actually took this photo myself with one hand.
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Hopefully this isn't the room they're offering for rent.
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These boys were keen to get my photo with them on their camera phones. I returned the favor, sans me.
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Adorable - full of confidence and potential.
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These photos can also be found here:

(The End)

Friday, May 14, 2010

Certainty is the death of inquiry.

Greetings happy people!

You may know that I recently completed a 40-day silent meditation retreat, and I haven't lost my mind yet. That may be a relief to some, but I don't entirely share the enthusiasm. In the Western world we're taught to primarily rely on our minds to navigate life, and this son of an engineer got a super-sized dose of the supreme power of logic and common sense. I've spent much of my life denying the existence of phenomena that I knew nothing about - just because I didn't have experience of it. If you spend enough time in India, you'll end up with less certainty about your certainty, or you'll burst a blood vessel trying to maintain your fixed ideas about how things work. I've managed some cracks in my suit of armor, but I'd just as soon the whole thing bust into pieces and clattered to the ground. I'm not finding it very helpful. 

I hesitate to share this story, but here goes. After the brief meditation that precedes the daily talk, one of the teachers, Jaya, commented that the energy in the room was so nice she hesitated speaking. When someone asked what exactly she meant, she spoke at length, describing the quality of that energy, while I had no idea what she was carrying on about. (Not an unusual experience for me.) At some point on the retreat I noticed that, for the first time, I felt kind of a tingling/buzzing sensation in my forehead, just between my eyebrows. It felt just like the tingling that I felt on another retreat (back in 1996) on the very crown of my head, that I still feel to this day when I'm quiet and pay attention - typically on retreat. Back in 1996 they described this sensation as your "crown chakra," something I would have liked to deny, except that I couldn't deny the sensation. There are supposedly seven chakras and I don't get it and it's too woo-woo for me so I just ignore it. But the tingling between my eyebrows felt just the same as the crown of my head, and they only happened at the same time - even the tingling was synchronized. I went to Jaya and said, "Can I ask my first-ever question about chakras?" I described the sensation and said that it started two days before. She said, yeah, that's another chakra [ya dope - it's the third eye chakra, where have you been] and asked when it started, exactly, if I could remember. I did happen to remember, since I was sitting in a spot that I didn't sit often, just before dinner, which mean it was just after she'd given her talk - the one when she talked about the energy. Jaya, why do you ask when it happened? "Because it's consistent with the energy that I was describing that day at the talk. That's pretty cool that it happened without you even knowing what it was." 

Now, because I'm such a lummox, I find the whole thing interesting. I can assure you that there are a bunch of people reading this who are rolling their eyes at the simplicity of it all - of course it's a chakra, how could you be surprised since it's so obviously true, etc., etc. Most of the others reading it are dismissing it as fantasy and delusion and explaining it away by whatever means they can - just as I would have done earlier. So why tell the dang story in the first place?? I guess I'm hoping there'll be at least one reader who hasn't formed a rigid opinion who says,"Wow. I wonder what that's all about." Dare to wonder, I'd suggest, because certainty is the death of inquiry.

Another story best left untold: even though I've always enjoyed these meditation retreats, I've never been as big a fan of meditation as most people that sit retreats. For years I've been trying to explain, mostly unsuccessfully, why I only meditate on retreat and not in-between. (It's hard to explain since I don't really have a good reason.) So it wasn't such a surprise, really, when the Indian teacher Ajay told me in an interview, "Your path isn't one of meditation. Yours is the path of love. See love wherever you go." Uh, how do I do that? "I think it's what you do normally - just practice seeing love, even when you're just caring for yourself, like shaving, for example." Do you think I should meditate, I asked? He kind of scrunched up his face and gave the Indian head wobble and said, "If you want." That's not the kind of advice you'll hear often on a meditation retreat! But the unflappable and slightly mysterious Ajay isn't your typical teacher, either. If I was the guru-seeking type, he'd be my guy. But he's not the guru-type, and I'm not the seeker-type, so that's that.

I went on a bunch of great hikes during the retreat, including to a hilltop ashram that I regularly visit when I'm in the area. The semi-toothless guru of the ashram welcomed me back, and through an interpreter, asked why I keep coming back to India. He said, "The truth isn't limited by geography. Why India?" I said that I get that question a lot from people back home, even though they have all their teeth. (OK, I left the teeth part out.) I said that when I do a retreat at home, it's like jumping into a pool, and when the retreat's over, you get out of the pool. But when you come to retreat in India, you're swimming the whole time. Something happens here, and I can't explain it. But it keeps me coming back.

Too much love!
Dave

The photos below are from Rishikesh and Haridwar (before the retreat), and Sattal, where the retreat was held. They can also be found here:


Incredible - what some people will believe: (Or is that just the old me talking? And how can I be sure?)
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This is the Laxman Jhula bridge over the Ganges River in Rishikesh, home to great yoga teachers and wicked apple pie. In this photo the bridge is unusually crowded with Indian tourists who've come up from the Kumbh Mela, downstream about a half-hour's drive in Haridwar.
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The crowds arriving at the Kumbh Mela in Haridwar. In the evening this whole area was covered with people sleeping on the concrete.
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Bathers at the Kumbh Mela.
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The water is wickedly cold and fast-moving. This official is preparing a net that hangs under the bridge to give a bather one last chance if they fall into the current.
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I love this kid's expression. I already know what he'll look like as an old man. Pretty much the same!
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You can see chains that are hanging in the river for people to hang onto if they get swept away.
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I think this guy may have been mentally ill.
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Pilgrims walking from the nearby train station with their belongings on their heads. Mostly they'll sleep on the wide concrete walkways.
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An Indian man told me in his broken English to come take photos of Ganesha, the Indian god with the head of an elephant. He was referring to this holy man, who has a rare deformity.
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I can't tell where his left eye should be. He seemed quite healthy otherwise. He was also fine with having his photo taken.
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This baba is the same one I took a photo of in the last newsletter. Those are some serious dreadlocks that reach down below his feet. He was quite the showman, and happy to show off his goods. If you know what I'm sayin'!
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Beautiful child!
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Ahhhh - a waterfall in Sattal, not far from where the retreat was held.
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The monkeys could be really cute, but I liked them better in this pose than when a big male bares his teeth and trys to steal my chapatis! They could be a real nuisance, but could also be really fun to watch when they played together.
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This is a guy who meditated too much on last year's retreat. Or maybe a langur - a monkey that gets to be about four feet tall. They're not nuisances at all - they're quite gentle and shy. They're also amazing to watch leaping from tree to tree.
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Sattal means seven lakes. These boats were for Indian tourists, just down from the retreat center.
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Taken from a local resort/hotel, high above the ashram where the retreat was held. You can just see a white dot in the very center of the photo where the ashram is located. It looks like an island from this angle, and it's nearly surrounded by lakes.
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Separating the wheat from the chaff, as they've done for millennia. But now they can watch BBC on the telly during breaks. See the satellite dish?
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A very sweet kid (the older one) who I first met in 2006.
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These look like bizarre flowers - but they're bizarre insects. They accumulate in droves on certain trees. 
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Here you see many thousands of them on one tree. Someone said they turn into butterflies or moths or something, but no one knew for sure.
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Two of the teachers, Gemma and Jaya, and their baby Gyan. They live (mostly) in Spain, but spent six months in India this year.
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A paddleboat on the lake.
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An old monkey with a cataract. I feel for you buddy - I've got one, too. I'm getting mine removed in Singapore this summer.
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The usually smiley armed guard from the ashram, just after he described how big the local leopards are. They're big!
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He traded his gun for my camera and took this photo. The angle was his artistic choice! 
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I have leopard stories, even though I didn't see any. We ALL heard them - and it's impressive! It can make for an exciting night-time walk back to your room along a dark path.
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The barn-turned-meditation-hall at the ashram. We had been in a big beautiful building, but it's a Christian ashram, and one of the mucky-mucks couldn't deal with us lying down in the hall - so they moved us here. Basic, but cozy. When we were meditating, mostly laying down, we were packed in like sardines!
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The teachers, from left: Gemma (Spain), Jaya (US), Ajay (India) and Jess (Australia.)
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The photos can also be seen here:

(The End!)



Sunday, March 14, 2010

Chaos of the most chaos-iest kind.

There is one big chunk of humanity lining the banks of the Ganga tonight here in Haridwar. Wow. They arrive from many places in India, with bags typically balanced on their heads, find a flat spot and call it good. They're sleeping on concrete with a piece of plastic under them and a thin blanket over them, and they'll be up before dawn to take their holy dip in the icy Ganga on that very auspicious day. The spirituality and devotion is beautiful to see.
 
Less beautiful to see was the giant rugby scrum I got in today, trying to squeeze a mass of enthusiastic pilgrims through a tiny opening in the barricades leading to a bridge. For some reason the police just stopped letting people through, so families and groups were separated and unable to reunite. It wasn't clear what they were doing or why, or how to get back together if you were separated. I could have just wandered off, since I didn't need to cross that bridge, but the chaos was spell-binding and too fun to miss. At one point I was in the middle of this throng of enthusiastic pilgrims - everyone was pushing so hard that I thought if I was being pickpocketed I wouldn't even know it, or be able to do anything about it. And I was right! When the smoke cleared I was minus my phone. Since I had a lot of your phone numbers and a few e-mail addresses in the phone book, don't fall for any "send money" scams.
 
My train leaves in two hours, so I'm off. We'll chat again in 40-ish days or so...
 
Love, love, chaos-filled love,
Dave