Monday, May 16, 2011

Easter Processions during Semana Santa, in Antigua (with a video!)

Oh, dear readers, I've not abandoned you. But I feel like I have. Most of you have no idea when I last wrote or where I even am. But it's my feeling, dang it, and I can cling to it if I want. I mentioned procrastination the last time I wrote (as if you even read my letters!) so that's off the table. Geesh - I'm speechless. My good intentions when I came on this trip (I'm in Guatemala, thanks for asking) was to write more, photograph more, and generally be engaged and engaging. It hasn't worked out that way.

Enough of that nonsense, and on to other nonsense. Semana Santa, which means Holy Week, (Easter to the rest of us) is a Big Deal in Antigua. It's famous for its giant processions that weave their way through the cobblestone streets of the city. Locals sign up to carry huge floats on their shoulders, as you'll see in the VIDEO (whoa!) and photos below. I'm worn out watching a procession for half an hour, but they run from a few hours to 18 hours in length. The tradition comes from Spain, where it was it really got going in 1521 when some noble or other returned from the Holy Land and wanted to initiate a "stations of the cross" walkathon. It doesn't appear to be spread evenly through Latin America, by any means, although someone mentioned that they got in a massive traffic jam in the Mission District of San Francisco during a procession. Who knew.

Look for more photos soon, lovely people.

Hugs and besos,
Dave

The video I created, using footage from my Canon 7D camera. It took a long time to make this - you need to watch it!


Gettin' jiggy with it, marimba style, on the the town square.
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Such a beautiful face.
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These "alfombras," or carpets, are made on the routes of the processions. This one is made with pine needles, sawdust, colored egg containers, and flowers. They're swept up immediately after the procession walks over them.
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A hat vendor. Or maybe he just really hates the sun.
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I was kind of excited when I saw the first one of these purple guys wandering around. He wasn't alone...
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Yikes. It's a convention.
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The colors of the outfits change. In the early days of the celebration, they wear the purple, then on Good Friday everyone is in black. In the distance you can see the float.
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I'm not sure of the center guy's role, but they usually look like they're doing their best to steer the float. At times they're pushing pretty hard one way or the other.
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Women carry separate floats, of course. And they're always behind the men's float. Of course.
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They look like they take it pretty seriously.
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I'm loving the hairstyle, and general grooviness.
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There were floats carried by really young children, but their parents were huddled so close to them I couldn't get a photo. These girls look to be maybe 13-ish.
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Lawrence of Antigua.
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Roman soldiers at the head of one of the processions.
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Good Friday.
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(The End)

Saturday, April 02, 2011

In honor of Mom's birthday, an old post from hospice

I'm leaving Antigua in a couple of hours for a 10-day silent retreat at Lake Atitlan, so I'll be out of touch. It's a Tibetan-flavored retreat, which I don't know much about, but what I do know kind of puts me off. I'm expecting it to be a little harder than I'm used to. That's probably a good reason to go.

It was my Mom's birthday two days ago, and I thought I'd post something I'd written on her blog while she was in hospice. For those who don't know, Mom was sick with pancreatic cancer, and after six months, we took her to a beautiful hospice where all the doctors expected her to only live for a day or two. 

I hope you'll take the time to read this, even though the subject can be painful. It's impossible for me to read without crying, and it brings back a flood of painful and beautiful memories.

Love to you!
Dave

Sunday, June 29, 2008


Mom is still with us


Once again, Mom is surprising everyone by not only being alive late Sunday, but being perhaps more communicative today than she's been any day since she was admitted to the hospital, a week ago today. (That was a week ago? If we weren't wearing our watches, we could barely tell what month it is.) Continuing the trend that we were sure would end days ago, Mom is getting more talkative, even as she's starting to hallucinate. She's said so many funny comments that we can't keep track of them. She looks at the ceiling periodically and focuses, and you can tell she's seeing something. Once she said, "Scoot! Scoot!" which is what she says to the cats that come in her yard. When we asked, she said, "I don't know, I think they were turtles or something." We're all on the lookout for roof turtles now. She carried on an animated one-sided conversation tonight, saying, "Oh, really!" ... long pause... "Well I had no idea."

The doctor joked about all the family we have from Utah, saying "It looks like everyone in Salt Lake City is coming to see you." Mom said, "Works for me!"

She intersperses hallucinations with confusion and clarity, and it's hard to know when she's totally clear. Maybe the most surprising thing I saw today was when her friend Charlotte was there and Mom asked if she could talk to her alone, without all the people around. I asked if she wanted us to leave, and Mom said she did. She then reached for Charlotte to pull her close and spoke just to her. I've recorded a bunch of the today's conversations, which I can only imagine we'll really appreciate having in years to come.

If you felt the earth shift off its axis for a second today, it was because Mike called our Dad to give him an update. It was a tearful call, which is shocking enough in its own right, but the stunner came when Dad said to tell Mom that he loved her. I happened to be on CNN at the time, and they were reporting a giant blizzard in Hell. It's probably a coincidence.

Hilarity aside, I see it as another gift of this process, of which there have been many. Hearts open, and people get to places they can't normally access. We dread the thought of death, and most of us refuse to think about it, or worse, unconsciously think that it won't happen to us. But we have a choice - don't wait until it's too late to contemplate the changing nature of life, including your own death. Today's a good day to begin, while you have the luxury of ability and time.

OK, I got sidetracked - back to gifts. Mom's illness took this sudden turn so quickly that we didn't think anyone in her family could make it in time to see her. We discouraged my aunt Charlene and her oldest daughter Julie from coming, and thank God they didn't listen. The next day three more of their kids drove all night from Salt Lake City, and that evening two more of their siblings flew in. So we now have 11 people in the hospice for Mom, plus other visitors dropping by. Fortunately there's room for all the love, since it doesn't take much space - but the luggage and sprawling bodies on the sofas are pushing the capacity of the house. And tomorrow - more family is coming. We hope for their sake that Mom is still here when they arrive. For Mom's sake - I'm not sure what I hope. I'm pretty sure I don't get a vote... OK, I just thought about it, and here's what I hope: I hope that everyone is happy, and peaceful, and safe, and is filled with the love of this magical experience, in whatever way that physically comes about. (That was easy - why complicate it with details?)

Lastly, I want to add that when I declared that my "suffering has ended" the other day, I was premature. Because Mom is still so with it, she can communicate when she's in pain or restless or wants to get up, and it pushes all my I-don't-want-Mom-to-suffer buttons. I mean, it REALLY pushes those buttons. Mike and I spent a long time today talking with Mom, and at one point, she said, "I feel really good." We talked about our favorite meals she used to make us growing up, and how caring she was, always worried about us. It was so far beyond anything we could have dreamed about a few days ago that we were both feeling so blessed. Towards the end, though, Mom started getting fidgety and anxious, and then complaining clearly about intense pain in her back, and I just about lost it. It's the one thing that I've always for my mother - that she be happy and not suffer. I've been so motivated by that these last six months, but that's really just been the obvious expression of a lifelong desire for her. Between the supreme exhaustion and sleep deprivation, I was totally overwhelmed and cried, but not like a baby - I cried like an adult who really loves his mother, and is starting to understand that love in a whole new way. That, too, is a gift. A huge, painful, beautiful, mysterious, love-filled gift.

More than ever, I love you Mom.

Dave










Mom's blog: www.patadair.com

(The End)

Friday, March 18, 2011

Antigua, Guatemala

There's something deep in my core that tells me tomorrow is a better day to write that blog post or finish that project. That might have something to do (uh, everything to do) with my not posting for such a long time. I'm gonna leave the tendency chillin' in my core in case poking around might uncover some uncomfortable truth. That might not be pleasant!

In a more seriously serious vein, I am mesmerized and in shock and in total awe of what happened in Japan with the earthquake and tsunami. Watching the videos fills me with some kind of inexplicable wonder about the power of nature and the frailty of humankind in the face of it. I don't even know for myself what all it stirs in me, but I can't take my eyes of it. Any one of those towns being so devastated would be a fantastic tragedy, but to see the destruction on such a vast scale is just overwhelming. I'm in earthquake country now in Guatemala. 

You'd think it might make me take a step towards preparedness, but it hasn't. What's up with that. I'll tell you what it reminds me of. What, Broken Record boy? It reminds me of how we can live this temporary life, but not REALLY appreciate how fragile life is, and how tenuous our hold on it is. We know - but we don't know. I grew up in California, where you get used to earthquakes and don't really prepare. But one day, there's gonna be a BIG one, and we aren't going to be ready. And I'm not talking about earthquakes.

I'll write next time about my new life here in beautiful Antigua. All is well with me!

Love,
Dave
 

The arch is one of the more prominent landmarks in Antigua, and that "Volcan Fuego" (Fire Volcano) in the background. All the streets here are cobblestone, which means road repairs are typically a couple of old guys with a wheelbarrow, pick and shovel.
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Inside Panza Verde, one of the nicer hotels. Lauren and I splashed out and stayed here two nights. It's owned by an American guy, and I went there last night for a 10th anniversary party for a local charity.
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One of the MANY churches in Antigua that isn't in ruins. There are probably an equal number that are in ruins. I'll find out the numbers and get back to you!
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The ceiling dome of a church.
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A lifelike statue of Jesus inside a church.
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The walls of Antigua are famous for being old and colorful.
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This is inside the spectacular Casa de Santo Domingo, an incredibly beautiful hotel built on the ruins on a monastery. I happened to run into the videographer of NewsHour, who was here shooting stories about Guatemala for a week. They were shown last week. The 10 minute segments are here and here.
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These candles were set just outside a wedding ceremony in the same hotel
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A wedding at Casa Santa Domingo. Beautiful!
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A local bar/cafe has nightly live music. These two are both from the U.S.
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More soon...

(The End)