Tuesday, September 15, 2015

Road trip to the Dolomites

"Great is the matter of life and death
Moments go by swiftly and are lost
To squander time is a great shame
Do not waste your life"
 ~ Zen saying

“We’re all just farting around, and don’t let anyone tell you different.”
 ~ Kurt Vonnegut

Lovely people!

I'm on my third annual trip to the Dolomites, which counts the last two that I planned but didn't make. I was here once in 2011 and remember saying that I could spend a whole summer here. I drove here from the south of France and got waylaid by some beautiful non-Dolomite places, which you'll see in the photos below.

Enjoy the photos!

Love,
Dave


Why there's a huge, bouncy, footbridge across this river is not known to me. But I like the disorienting angle of the photo, plus the colors of the trees and water.



That looks nice. I wonder where that is.



I own some maps, but I almost never look at them. I ask my GPS which way, she tells me, and I say yes. I figure it's good training for being in a relationship. She thought I should go up this mountain pass, past the Hotel Belvedere. She's got such good ideas. I love her.



It might be 200 feet down to the river. I always wonder how people manage to build these bridges, especially when they were done ages ago.



I love this view. Crossing the road to the right is a railroad line. But trains can't go up steep slopes like cars and trucks. Continue to the next picture...



The curly-Q loop-the-loops show the route of the rail line that was built 100 years ago. It has spirals tunneled into the rock so it can climb a mountain from the inside. I drove through a tunnel like that a few years ago in Switzerland.



I got stuck on this pass for a few hours because some bicycling event was happening on the other side. Poor bike riders. And in the middle of nowhere on a snowy Swiss mountain pass, I had perfect cell phone signal and internet access. I had that mostly in San Francisco too, except for at work and at my house. True story.



I probably look more relaxed than I am.



The Mrs. (my GPS) just about killed me, taking me up this pass. She doesn't tell me what's in store, just where to go.



I just about fainted when I saw this. It didn't look possible to drive down it, much less to have built it. It's actually much steeper than it looks in the photo. I'm going all the way down to the very bottom of the valley, off in the distance. I've just left Switzerland and crossed into Italy at this point.



On the way down the light was fantastic. All through the Alps there are roads and hotels in the most amazing places.



My first hike on this trip.



I wild camped for two nights next to this rushing river. On the second night I backed up nonchalantly to the cliff edge and startled myself when I realized how close I was to going over the steep bank.



The waterfall next to the camping spot. There are many thing I don't know, including how they manage to put in those overflow dam things to slow down the water. This thing was gushing so loud it could keep you up at night. Not me, you.



This is the village of Solda, not far from the wicked mountain pass.



I had a lovely big hike up this valley.



This is why I don't hike in the U.S. You hike here for three hours and there's a restaurant serving great Italian food (uh, it's in Italy) and cold beer. This beer cost $4, which is less than you could find a beer at home outside of happy hour.



Hiking back down to the valley, where I started.



Magic!



I hope this photo doesn't ruin anyone's day. I was taking a selfie so I could photoshop it onto Donald Trump's face and the camera went off by mistake. I make Donald Trump look good! It freaks me out so much it needs to be shared.



I hiked down a dead-end road and came across this religious refuge, including a small chapel.



This is the inside of the chapel.



My first official campsite. I'd been wild camping up to this point.



A wild camping spot, high above a lake.



When the river was dammed, an entire village was swallowed by the lake. They decided to keep this church tower as a memorial.



On another hike, a dam with a fish ladder next to it.



These guys look like the Irish wooly mammoth cows, or whatever you call them. I kept getting closer until I heard him say "shishkebob." It sounded like "moo" but I knew what he meant. The final photo of him is a blurry one with his body only half in the frame as I'm running away.



I do love a waterfall.



A football pitch, or "soccer" as you Americans say it! Nice spot for a game.



Looking down the valley that I'd just walked.



The town square of St. Vigilio, where I'm camped (legally) for the last four nights.



This is how all the local men dress! At festivals. When they're performing.



Rugged mountains, everywhere you look.



This was yesterday, when it was supposed to rain the whole day. It never did, so I started hiking. THEN it did.



A church at another small village.



Today's hike. A beautiful, rugged area, but dotted with "refugios," refuges, where you can eat and spend the night.



Three hours of hiking in, and this is how they treat you! Sweet.



Those are massive, house-sized blocks of rock that have fallen from the mountain.



Water, wind, and geologic forces have sculpted the landscape over eons. Much of the Dolomites used to be underwater.



I took this through my binoculars. It's hard to gauge distances, but I'd estimate the gap at the back of this chunk of rock is 30 feet (10 meters) across. It's HUGE. I was amazed that this massive block is sliding down and staying in one piece. You can see how it fits into the gap left behind it.



A panoramic view on the walk back. Click the photo for a larger view.


(The End)

Thursday, September 03, 2015

"Opening to grace and wonder in this present living moment"

"Few I met actually had a "last year". Most had only a "last" month or two, a few weeks or days, or a few seconds. To have a whole year to examine one's life consciously in the context of approaching death is almost unique in the human experience. And it gives a person the power to heal that which remains unloved and unloving. But why wait for a terminal diagnosis before opening to the potential grace and wonder of this living moment. No one can afford to put this work off any longer, because almost no one knows the day on which the last year begins."
 ~ Stephen Levine, A Year to Live

Good people, your time is up. No, not now, but soon. What are we waiting for?

As for me, I'm healthy as can be, free from doctor's restrictions, jumping off rocks into rivers, hiking, aging, failing, and approaching death, like everyone else. Some see that as a negative view - like maybe you'll escape death if you're positive enough! Good luck with that one. I see it as the juice that can inspire us to really live our precious life. I prefer the arms-wide-open, look truth in the eye methodology, as best we're able. Go deep. Ask the big questions. Why else are we here?

If you're not sure what I'm talking about, or why, soon enough you'll know. Don't wait too long. One day you'll only have a year to live, but "almost no one knows the day on which the last year begins."

All my love,
Dave

Photos from southern France follow.


I made a big effort to get to the last full day of the Dharma Yatra, the 10th that I've attended. It's a beautiful gathering. You can come! www.dharmayatra.org



The boys, Chris on violin and Wim on guitar, plus Nastia, playing a mean cooking pot, joined me on the Sangha Holiday a few days later.



I was hoping to surprise people, but word got out that I was coming. A few were surprised, including, in a way, me. I was sure that it would be impossible for me to attend, even for a day.



My brother-from-another-mother, Denis, leads a group in laying down meditation.



The yatra was in the Alps this year for the first time. The scenery, what I could see and from photos, was amazing.











One of my favorite jobs is carrying kids on my shoulders when they get tired. No carrying this year, or even walking, since I came for only one day.



Future heartbreakers, no doubt.







After the yatra a group of us camped together and went out for a nice meal in a nearby village.



The French know how to do it.







Our campsite for one night.



The road trip begins. English, Australian, Israeli, Dutch, and Israeli.



Lovely Jess takes a spontaneous mud bath by the side of a little road.



Chris was even more beautiful than usual after this beauty treatment.



Wim is wearing a flesh-colored swimsuit.



Two minutes after a spontaneous rest stop, the hammock is tied and occupied.



Jess and Wim.



The last night of our little road trip was hosted by Debbie at her place. She cooked a lovely meal.



During the Sangha Holiday we attended a violin concert in this ancient church.



We tried recording a music video for Wim. This is where we jump off the rocks into the river. Notice the color of the water.



After heavy rains, the river at the Sangha Holiday turned the color of paint.



I still love stone work. Why, exactly, I have no idea. But I have no choice in the matter.



On a big walk, 16 km (10 miles) including 850 meters (2,800 feet) climbing with a steep descent.



The walkers, including 11 year old Abe, who made it look like a walk in the park.



The viewpoint from Mt. Carroux.



A panoramic from the viewpoint. Click for a larger view.



The van got some good use on this trip. I count four people, since that's all that's legal.



Another hike with the second group. This one was 22 km (13 miles) but not as much climbing. I was still pretty beat when it was over, partly because I couldn't exercise much after my surgery.



There are a number of ruins on this trail. At one time there was a thriving chestnut "industry" here, and incredible terraces supported by stone walls line the walk



Beautiful, rugged scenery.



At our last stop, this water is icy cold.



Crystal clear pools.



The second group.



After the Sangha Holiday was over, I joined Denis and friends for a beach day.



Meet Lanza, Denis and Lydia's son.



And now - I'm heading to the north of Italy, to the Dolomites. I gasped when I came around the corner and saw this scene, even though I was here a few years ago. Incredible.


Thanks for looking!
(The End)



Wednesday, July 29, 2015

The precious insight of a near miss

"When it comes your time to die, be not like those whose hearts are filled with the fear of death, so that they weep and pray for a little more time to live their lives over again in a different way. Sing your death song and die like a hero going home."
 ~ Chief Tecumseh

"Tragedy is FOR us. It's the greatest gift; whether an illness or the death of a loved one, or the loss of a job, it allows our perception to be shifted. It's of great, immeasurable value."
 ~ Deborah Westmoreland

It's been a tough time for the Adair family. I somehow dodged a bullet, while my brother hasn't been so lucky. He's in intensive care right now, recovering from his fourth brain tumor surgery. His operation was Monday in San Francisco at UCSF Medical Center (University of California at San Francisco), while my colon cancer surgery happened two weeks earlier, to the day, also in San Francisco, also at UCSF.

It's tempting to launch into details during situations like these: what happened, when, what's the prognosis, how much of this, how little of that. While those "details" are important and need to be managed, they can also obscure bigger truths: we are temporary, fragile beings, living this one sacred life, and regardless of how it might end and under what circumstances, it will certainly end, and almost certainly the end will be neither pleasing nor attractive. Don't miss the forest for the trees, people! And don't think it won't happen to you: no one gets out alive. Perhaps more than just osbscuring truths, the details obscure important questions: why am I here, and what am I doing. To paraphrase Thoreau, are you going confidently in the direction of your dreams, living the live you've imagined? If you're not - why not?

I caught every lucky break imaginable on this recent medical journey. It only started three and a half weeks ago, but it's already winding down. On Friday, July 3, the anniversary of my Mother's death, I was in Delhi and had my first-ever colonoscopy. They found a tumor that seemed highly likely to be cancerous. I had a CAT scan the same day and spent the weekend alone in my not-quite-squalid hotel, pondering the choices and possible outcomes, debating about having surgery in Delhi vs. coming home and taking my chances on my crummy health insurance. On Monday they confirmed that it was cancer, Tuesday afternoon I decided to come home, and Wednesday I flew home. The saintly and uber-efficient Whitney somehow managed to get me an appointment on Friday with one of the top surgeons in the U.S., apparently, for this type of surgery. By the end of the appointment the insurance had been authorized, and Monday morning I was under the knife, a mere 10 days from the colonoscopy. A week later I found out that I don't need chemo or any other treatment, just some additional monitoring and tests over the next few years. Voila.

My brother Mike faces a greater challenge. He just had brain tumor surgery on Monday and is in intensive care as I write this. He was very weak before the surgery, from a combination of the long-term effects of strong medications, prior surgeries, radioactive treatments, and a new fast-growing tumor that is pressing on his brain. When I first saw him after surgery he couldn't find simple words like yes or no, from swelling on the brain. That seems to have passed, but he doesn't have an easy path ahead of him. I looked at him in bed with a giant white bandage around his head, his face puffy and his eyes having a hard time focusing. It made me wonder about changing places with him if I could.

If you're able, let these experiences from the Adair boys sink in. There but for the grace of God, go you, dude.

All my love,
Dave


Rishikesh, India, March 2015