Saturday, April 02, 2011

In honor of Mom's birthday, an old post from hospice

I'm leaving Antigua in a couple of hours for a 10-day silent retreat at Lake Atitlan, so I'll be out of touch. It's a Tibetan-flavored retreat, which I don't know much about, but what I do know kind of puts me off. I'm expecting it to be a little harder than I'm used to. That's probably a good reason to go.

It was my Mom's birthday two days ago, and I thought I'd post something I'd written on her blog while she was in hospice. For those who don't know, Mom was sick with pancreatic cancer, and after six months, we took her to a beautiful hospice where all the doctors expected her to only live for a day or two. 

I hope you'll take the time to read this, even though the subject can be painful. It's impossible for me to read without crying, and it brings back a flood of painful and beautiful memories.

Love to you!
Dave

Sunday, June 29, 2008


Mom is still with us


Once again, Mom is surprising everyone by not only being alive late Sunday, but being perhaps more communicative today than she's been any day since she was admitted to the hospital, a week ago today. (That was a week ago? If we weren't wearing our watches, we could barely tell what month it is.) Continuing the trend that we were sure would end days ago, Mom is getting more talkative, even as she's starting to hallucinate. She's said so many funny comments that we can't keep track of them. She looks at the ceiling periodically and focuses, and you can tell she's seeing something. Once she said, "Scoot! Scoot!" which is what she says to the cats that come in her yard. When we asked, she said, "I don't know, I think they were turtles or something." We're all on the lookout for roof turtles now. She carried on an animated one-sided conversation tonight, saying, "Oh, really!" ... long pause... "Well I had no idea."

The doctor joked about all the family we have from Utah, saying "It looks like everyone in Salt Lake City is coming to see you." Mom said, "Works for me!"

She intersperses hallucinations with confusion and clarity, and it's hard to know when she's totally clear. Maybe the most surprising thing I saw today was when her friend Charlotte was there and Mom asked if she could talk to her alone, without all the people around. I asked if she wanted us to leave, and Mom said she did. She then reached for Charlotte to pull her close and spoke just to her. I've recorded a bunch of the today's conversations, which I can only imagine we'll really appreciate having in years to come.

If you felt the earth shift off its axis for a second today, it was because Mike called our Dad to give him an update. It was a tearful call, which is shocking enough in its own right, but the stunner came when Dad said to tell Mom that he loved her. I happened to be on CNN at the time, and they were reporting a giant blizzard in Hell. It's probably a coincidence.

Hilarity aside, I see it as another gift of this process, of which there have been many. Hearts open, and people get to places they can't normally access. We dread the thought of death, and most of us refuse to think about it, or worse, unconsciously think that it won't happen to us. But we have a choice - don't wait until it's too late to contemplate the changing nature of life, including your own death. Today's a good day to begin, while you have the luxury of ability and time.

OK, I got sidetracked - back to gifts. Mom's illness took this sudden turn so quickly that we didn't think anyone in her family could make it in time to see her. We discouraged my aunt Charlene and her oldest daughter Julie from coming, and thank God they didn't listen. The next day three more of their kids drove all night from Salt Lake City, and that evening two more of their siblings flew in. So we now have 11 people in the hospice for Mom, plus other visitors dropping by. Fortunately there's room for all the love, since it doesn't take much space - but the luggage and sprawling bodies on the sofas are pushing the capacity of the house. And tomorrow - more family is coming. We hope for their sake that Mom is still here when they arrive. For Mom's sake - I'm not sure what I hope. I'm pretty sure I don't get a vote... OK, I just thought about it, and here's what I hope: I hope that everyone is happy, and peaceful, and safe, and is filled with the love of this magical experience, in whatever way that physically comes about. (That was easy - why complicate it with details?)

Lastly, I want to add that when I declared that my "suffering has ended" the other day, I was premature. Because Mom is still so with it, she can communicate when she's in pain or restless or wants to get up, and it pushes all my I-don't-want-Mom-to-suffer buttons. I mean, it REALLY pushes those buttons. Mike and I spent a long time today talking with Mom, and at one point, she said, "I feel really good." We talked about our favorite meals she used to make us growing up, and how caring she was, always worried about us. It was so far beyond anything we could have dreamed about a few days ago that we were both feeling so blessed. Towards the end, though, Mom started getting fidgety and anxious, and then complaining clearly about intense pain in her back, and I just about lost it. It's the one thing that I've always for my mother - that she be happy and not suffer. I've been so motivated by that these last six months, but that's really just been the obvious expression of a lifelong desire for her. Between the supreme exhaustion and sleep deprivation, I was totally overwhelmed and cried, but not like a baby - I cried like an adult who really loves his mother, and is starting to understand that love in a whole new way. That, too, is a gift. A huge, painful, beautiful, mysterious, love-filled gift.

More than ever, I love you Mom.

Dave










Mom's blog: www.patadair.com

(The End)

Friday, March 18, 2011

Antigua, Guatemala

There's something deep in my core that tells me tomorrow is a better day to write that blog post or finish that project. That might have something to do (uh, everything to do) with my not posting for such a long time. I'm gonna leave the tendency chillin' in my core in case poking around might uncover some uncomfortable truth. That might not be pleasant!

In a more seriously serious vein, I am mesmerized and in shock and in total awe of what happened in Japan with the earthquake and tsunami. Watching the videos fills me with some kind of inexplicable wonder about the power of nature and the frailty of humankind in the face of it. I don't even know for myself what all it stirs in me, but I can't take my eyes of it. Any one of those towns being so devastated would be a fantastic tragedy, but to see the destruction on such a vast scale is just overwhelming. I'm in earthquake country now in Guatemala. 

You'd think it might make me take a step towards preparedness, but it hasn't. What's up with that. I'll tell you what it reminds me of. What, Broken Record boy? It reminds me of how we can live this temporary life, but not REALLY appreciate how fragile life is, and how tenuous our hold on it is. We know - but we don't know. I grew up in California, where you get used to earthquakes and don't really prepare. But one day, there's gonna be a BIG one, and we aren't going to be ready. And I'm not talking about earthquakes.

I'll write next time about my new life here in beautiful Antigua. All is well with me!

Love,
Dave
 

The arch is one of the more prominent landmarks in Antigua, and that "Volcan Fuego" (Fire Volcano) in the background. All the streets here are cobblestone, which means road repairs are typically a couple of old guys with a wheelbarrow, pick and shovel.
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Inside Panza Verde, one of the nicer hotels. Lauren and I splashed out and stayed here two nights. It's owned by an American guy, and I went there last night for a 10th anniversary party for a local charity.
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One of the MANY churches in Antigua that isn't in ruins. There are probably an equal number that are in ruins. I'll find out the numbers and get back to you!
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The ceiling dome of a church.
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A lifelike statue of Jesus inside a church.
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The walls of Antigua are famous for being old and colorful.
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This is inside the spectacular Casa de Santo Domingo, an incredibly beautiful hotel built on the ruins on a monastery. I happened to run into the videographer of NewsHour, who was here shooting stories about Guatemala for a week. They were shown last week. The 10 minute segments are here and here.
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These candles were set just outside a wedding ceremony in the same hotel
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A wedding at Casa Santa Domingo. Beautiful!
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A local bar/cafe has nightly live music. These two are both from the U.S.
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More soon...

(The End)

Friday, January 28, 2011

"It is only with one's heart that one can see clearly..."

"It is only with one's heart that one can see clearly. What is essential is invisible to the eye." 
- Antoine de Saint-Exupery

Greetings, happy people. I don't have much to say, and I can't possibly say it all in one go. I can't explain it. Snippets might work.
  • I first came to Guatemala in 1996 with my friend Whitney, in what turned out to be a 13-month trip to Costa Rica and back in our VW van, which I still own. Not TOO many things have changed - more buildings, now there are cellphones, the Internet was invented. Crime is on the rise: there are 19 murders a DAY in Guatemala City, but not too much violent crime in most of the country.
  • I walked into a courtyard of shops and businesses in Antigua, and something very strong said You've Been Here Before. Took some time to realize that it was the location of the first internet e-mail shop I'd maybe ever used. We were told that the owner, a German guy, was shot seven years ago when someone tried to steal his car, and he's been paralyzed since.
  • I had my teeth cleaned. Very nice dentist, but my first warning was when he wrapped a hand towel around my neck and chin, up to my mouth. So much water came out of this pneumatic drill/water geyser contraption that I felt like I was being water-boarded. I was just about to rat out my whole family for crimes real and imagined, but the session ended. The tip of my front tooth chipped off the next morning and I want to believe it's a coincidence. 
  • I still remember telling someone on my first trip to Asia that Guatemala was peaceful and had no problems. If you exclude the 36-year civil war that was responsible for 200,000 deaths, I was right. 
  • If you hold the (forgive me) delusional belief that the U.S. government REALLY supports human rights and democracy around the world, I'm a little bit of a loss. But I shared that mistaken belief through most of my adult life. You really need to read this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guatemalan_Civil_War#U.S._involvement. It's painful - you don't want to read it - and you really need to read it. Sorry.
  • This cracks me up. Search Google for "Vigora high power." Look who shows up in the first result. Follow that link, read and enjoy: www.google.com/search?q=%22vigora+high+power%22
  • My friend Lauren is here!  I love to change plans! She doesn't! We're having a blast!
  • We're leaving tonight on a 10 or 12 hour overnight bus trip to Tikal, some of the most amazing ruins in Central America.
  • I'm flying to India Feb. 1st. I mean I WAS flying. I'm changing my flight, and going to India later. Or not at all. Maybe I'll head straight to Europe in May or June. Or something. Do I have to decide now?
LOVE!
Dave


The woven textiles here are fantastic! 
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These kids are swimming under a dock in Santa Cruz, Lake Atitlan, on a windy day, where the waves get pretty rough.
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Laura, on the left, holds her 7-week old son Nico. She's lived here for three years. Deedle, on the right, started the popular hotel/hostel La Iguana, 15 years ago.
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Lovely Sarito, who just turned 84, has lived here on and off for 30 years. He's spent a lot of time in India, and I met him in 1996. 
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Last year tropical storm Agatha wreaked havoc on Guatemala, closing some roads for many months. This road had been completely buried.
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Pesky little kid trying to sell me stuff. I turn it into a game and don't mind the pestering, usually.
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I love this man's face.
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Lauren (on the right) had arranged a trip with a fair trade coffee organizer, Raniero, and he introduced us to Maria Luisa, who's holding the basket.
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Maria Luisa's hands, holding freshly picked coffee beans. She's working on this day with her teenaged sons.
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Maria Luisa spoke so passionately, and with such pride, about her rare position of being a woman who owns her own plot of land and grows her own coffee. She was an inspiration. After telling us how she divorced her husband and had nothing, she joined this coffee cooperative and is passing on the tradition to her children. She said, "I can't believe all of the things that I have." Amazing.
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This beautiful child is in among the coffee plants with her family. What a face!
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The older brother and his beautiful smile.
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I shot this out the window of our relatively fancy 4WD vehicle. We saw many trucks packed to the gills like this.
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Bee-keeper and former guerrilla. The stories this guy could tell. (See next photo.)
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If I heard correctly, this man and the last were fighting the Guatemalan army in the mountains for 18 years. When the war ended they came down and were sponsored to begin a coffee processing plant. In addition they have the bees, raise rabbits and chickens, and grow vegetables.
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Not surprisingly, Che Guevarra is a folk hero to guerrillas and former guerrillas around the world.
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The boat dock at Santiago, Lake Atitlan.
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Lovely child and mother.
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The steps to one of the main churches in Chichicastenango, site of maybe the country's most famous market, twice a week.
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Cute.
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Somehow it's become almost normal to ask for 5 Quetzales (about $.75) to take a photo here. Maybe I'm just stubborn, but I'd rather walk away than pay for a photo. And I did walk away from some beautiful opportunities. I think it's reasonable for them to ask, but also fine for me to say no thanks.
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Lauren looking at some belts.
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I love this guy's smile. He's got silver stars capping two teeth.
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These small boats are called cayucos. I'm sure I couldn't stand up in one without tipping over. They're tiny.
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The vegetable market in Chichi.
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This woman would fix her stare at someone until they burst into flames. That was pretty cool.
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Such amazing colors and patterns!
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Parts of the Chichi market were really crowded.
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Lovely! (Lauren says I say that about every kid. I deny it.)
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Dried shrimp.
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I really like this shot.
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White corn and blue corn tortillas, all made by hand without presses or rolling devices. They just pat their hands together.
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Love!
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(The End)